Northeastern Italy's Adriatic Beach Scene

 
Polignano.jpg

Let’s be honest.

If you’re a beach in northeastern Italy, you’re probably not making the country’s list of “Top 10 Must-See Beaches” any time soon. But to be fair, the competition is pretty stiff; few places in the world can compete with the idyllic coastlines of Sicily and Sardenia. Nevertheless, should you find yourself in the Veneto or Friuli-Venezia Giulia regions during summertime, a seaside outing can still be an item on your itinerary. 

Below are three standout beaches along northern Italy’s Adriatic coast, plus some p’s and q’s of Italian beach culture to help guarantee a successful trip.

1.Lido di Venezia

Complete with Venice's only golf course and minus the lagoon’s ill-famed throng of tourists, Venice Lido is something of a Venetian suburbia. Add to that the island’s 11-kilometer long sandbar, and it’s not hard to see why locals and visitors ferry over for breath of fresh sea air.

The primary public option, Blue Moon Beach, is a walkable 2 kilometers east of the ferry station. The beach area is sectioned off from the rest of the island by tall hedges, with entry points every few hundred yards. If you decide against renting an umbrella, Blue Moon is free to visit, but only until it runs into one of the many private beach clubs that Lido is notorious for. Characterized by their precise rows of 1960’s-style beach huts, these clubs give an overall sense of order and privacy to the Lido experience; they look exactly as if someone painstakingly placed thousands of life-sized Monopoly houses in lines along the shore.

That being said, if a less-structured scene is more your speed, you can hop a bus to the southern point of the island and visit the Alberoni Dunes, a more rugged and natural WWF-protected beach area. 

2. Lido di Jesolo

The atmosphere of Lido di Jesolo is very much one of a seaside vacation destination. The surrounding area has been built up with family-friendly attractions like an aquarium, arcades and a water park, and there’s a golf course and several night clubs to keep adults entertained. Austrian and Slovenian license plates crowd the lots, and there are even a few high-rise rentals, which for Northern Italy is relatively unheard of.

The beach itself is huge, over 15 kilometers long, and because it’s such an important tourist destination, considerably well-kept. A long paved path runs parallel to the water, and a stroll along it will take you past courts for bocce and beach volleyball, numerous cafes and the little “stabilimento” (kiosks) where you can stop for information or to purchase an umbrella.

Lido di Jesolo is also dog friendly! Bau Bau Beach is a dog-dedicated area where you and your pup can bathe and bask together. It is divided into sections for large and small dogs, and reserving a space in advance is recommended; it will set you back about EUR 17 for the day.

3. Grado

Located between Venice and Trieste, the island of Grado offers three public beaches, two dog beaches and one incredibly cute pedestrian thoroughfare. While it also boasts a water park and several thermal spas, this summer spot manages to strike a nice balance between resort destination and Italian charm.

The Spiaggia Principale is Grado’s main public beach, occupying three kilometers of real estate along the southern side of the island. It is similar to Lido di Jesolo in both form and function, from the umbrella rentals to the dog beach, although this one has an arguably better name: “Lido di Fido.” Spiaggia Principale is bookended by the smaller Costa Azzurra to the west and Spiaggia Airone to the east, and both of these have ‘free’ beach areas where you can just toss down your towel and jump in.

When it’s time for lunch or aperitivo, Grado’s centro is as lovely as they come, lined with restaurants, cafes and gelaterias. Careful though! Since this area is so highly-traversed, even average restaurants charge piazza prices. Max'in Grado is a cute little spot for seafood & wine, and Trattoria di Toni seems to be the local institution, as it appears in both Lonely Planet & the Michelin Guide. 

Now that you have some destinations in mind, here are some basic principles for first-time Italian beach-goers.

Italian Beach Day Basics

  • Private Beaches are generally associated with a hotel or residential neighborhood and access is restricted to guests. These beaches are clearly marked and monitored.

  • Public Beaches are defined by the characteristic rows of colored ombrellone (beach umbrellas) that visitors can rent by day, week, month or season. Prices include an umbrella and two beach chairs or lounges, and range from EUR 10 to 25 per day. You can reserve and pay for your space in advance, which is recommended for weekends and holidays, or look for the little kiosks along the shore to pay day-of.

  • Free Beaches are usually found adjacent to a main Public beach, and are short on facilities like changing rooms or showers. They can also be unsupervised. However, if you prefer a more casual outing where you can carve out your own space, find the free beach!

  • Dog Beaches are specified sections within a Public beach that are dog-friendly, including a designated swimming area. Most large Public beaches have an area for dogs, but it’s best to research this prior to arriving, as animals will likely be prohibited for the rest of the Public beach.

  • Types of Beaches: All of the beaches in this article, and most along the Adriatic, are sand. The closer you get to Croatia, however, the rockier they become. In fact, in Trieste where sand is scarce, sunbathers take to the large rock formations that jut out into the sea.

Note: All of these spots have been awarded Blue Flag status, a classification designated to beaches that meet criteria like water quality and environmental impact. An interactive map with all 2018 Blue Flag Beaches globally can be found here.